Antique Stoves,wood stoves,wood stoves,wood cook stove,mica,wood cook stoves,parlor stoves,chambers,coal stoves,Kitchen Queen,Bakers Choice,Bakers oven,Amish stoves, off grid stoves, Margin Stoves, Flame View, Gem Pac, Margin Gem

New Wood Cook Stoves

TOAC Shop - Most Everything for Your Antique Stove...

Kitchen Queen Cook stoves, Amish made, wood cooking stove, wood heating,wood burning stove,cook stove,cook stoves, Cooking with wood,

Stove Mica Isinglass

 Home

Stove Mica - Isinglass

Oval Stove Pipe

Stoves

Wanted

Appraisals

Mica-Parts

Store

Classifieds

Stove

Parts

TOAC Shop

Chambers Manuals

Safety Systems

 

Current inventory Restored Antique Stoves For Sale

New Wood Cook Stoves

Stove Parts, Pipe Mica, Knobs

The Old Appliance Club

Services

Stove Appraisals

Classifieds

History of Stoves In America

References

Stove Parts

Stoves Wanted

Custom Restorations

Where We Are

Wanted Thermostats

General Store

New Wood Stoves

 

 

 

 

Original Antique Stoves

Museum Quality

Antique Stoves For Sale

from the 1750-1950s

Current inventory

Antique Stoves

FOR SALE

Gas Stoves

Wood Cook Stoves

New Wood Cook Stoves

Wood and Gas

Coal Stoves

Parlor Stoves

Historic Stoves

Utility Stoves

Not Yet Restored Stoves

 

New Wood Cook Stoves For Sale

 

NEW !

Analyze and Troubleshoot

TS-7 Safety Systems Guide

 

Safety Valve TS7 - How to Analyze Troubleshoot

 

Thermostat Adjustment Guides

Robertshaw 2200S ThermostatsRobertshaw 2200S thermostat.jpg (5420 bytes)

 

NEW!

How to Repair

CLOCKS & TIMERS

Int'l Register

 

EXTRA ! EXTRA

Special

Hot-Cha ISSUE

Subscribe to the 

Newest issue of

The Old Road Home...

...remember to get your

FREE estimate and text ad.

 

'Take a Peek'

CHAMBERS B or C

Services / Parts

 

SAFETY VALVE REBUILDS

GRAYSON TS-7

and the New

"SAN MARIN"

Heavy Duty TS-7

Installs in Minutes

 

Burner GASKETS

40s-50s 

Protect Top Burners

 

ALTROL

Valve Burner Guide

for 40s-50s Stoves

CHAMBERS

Guide

 

Idle Hour Cook Book

How to

SAVE

GAS

 

Advertise in the TOAC CLASSIFIEDS

Buy / Sell / Locate HELP

Stove Range Oven Communique 

Still Embracing the 50s -  A Look at Antique Appliances & Kitchens

Click Picture for NEW Parts

 

ANTIQUE STOVE USED Parts

Free Finders Service for Antique Stove Parts - 7 Warehouses

Free Help Finding Parts

 

 

1920s-30s Thermostat / Regulator Rebuilding

 

1000 / 2200 DEGREES

INSULATION

 

Do-It-Yourself Testimonial by Laura

NEW Brochure !  1948

Western-Holly

 

INTERVIEWS

Newsday - 6/11/04

TOAC on RADIO

 

cp logoDo 

Special 'CP' Symbol.

Read about it in...

The Old Road Home

 

Hi my name is Edward Semmelroth founder of 

The Original Antique Stoves and AntiqueStoves.com

I am joining forces with Jack Santoro of The Old Appliance Club.

I have been restoring and conservator of Antique Stoves for over 24 years.

I have furnished Antique Stoves for Museums and fine Homes across America.

Thank you for stopping by.

Edward Semmelroth

 

 

 

 

middle.jpg (26931 bytes)

 

 

Wood Cook stove

Repairs and where to find parts

 

Index

What to look for

Where to find parts and  sell your Stove

Parts

Grates

Painting

How to find repairs

Black Light testing

Stove Associations   

 

In the initial joy of locating a fine-looking old stove, don’t lay down your money without first giving the stove a thorough examination. I know of one man who, at an auction, cheerfully paid $500 for a lavishly scrolled, highly-polished black cookstove. It was carefully loaded into the back of his pickup, but when he got home, it lay scattered in half a dozen pieces. The owner had cunningly puttied together the broken parts and applied a stout coat of stove blacking. Be willing to spend fifteen minutes or more going over the entire stove, inspecting for the presence and soundness of all the parts. (Be sure to take a flashlight along on stove-hunting expeditions: a careful examination of the inside is as important as the outside.

easter1.jpg (35322 bytes)

A desirable stove is one that is tight enough to prevent air from entering through any place other than the drafts; otherwise the rate of burning can’t be controlled and the firebox may overheat. Also, there should be no place for the smoke to escape other than through the stovepipe.

Most old stoves are less than perfect, but some are easily repaired. Others require more work, and still others are best forgotten. Missing parts are becoming increasingly difficult to replace, and should a stove be without such functional pieces as cooking lids, T’s, dividers, doors and dampers, consider moving on—or try   the following company's which still carries some old stove parts.

Woodman Associates Inc.

P.O. Box 186, Ballards Ridge Rd.

East Wakefield, NH 03830

1-603-522-8216

Heckler Brothers.

412-922-6811

Stove Parts Unlimited

1-800-874-0791

The best way to find original parts and reach the most people is to place a classified ad at.

 

The Old Appliance Classifieds

Go to top of page

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

AND

LOOK OUT FOR

 

Check the top of the stove. Make sure all the pieces are there, that they’re not warped. Look for any cracks.

Click picture to enlarge

cooktops.jpg (116441 bytes)

Go to top of page

This is from the South Bend stove catalog

sb3.jpg (42073 bytes)

Take an inventory of the parts on your prospective stove.

Make sure the stove you are looking at has all of it's parts

Stove top cracks, if small; can be welded or brazed. Larger cracks should be reinforced underneath with a steel plate. If the T’s are badly warped, (the parts most likely to do so), they’l have to be replaced, or you can try this simple repair. Fill the groove of the T, where the lid fits on, with furnace cement (found in hardware stores). While the cement is still wet, set the T in place, completely coat the cement with wood ashes, and put back the cooking lids. The cement will dry conforming to the shape of the lids and create an airtight seal, which the warping destroys. The ashes prevent the cement from adhering to the lids.

2. Check the sides, back, bottom and base of the stove. There should be no cracks or rusted-out areas.

Small cracks can be welded or brazed and, if necessary, re-inforced with a steel plate. If larger sections are missing, especially in such tricky areas as a curve, the problem increases. A piece of sheet steel  can be fitted from behind to fill the space and then stove cement applied to fill out the front. If any parts are not securely fastened, bolts are rusted out or the seams are loose, they must be removed, cleaned and reassembled. Scrape out the old cement from the seams, re-cement with new, replace the parts and tighten with new bolts.

Remove the lids over the firebox and check the grates and firebox liner, making sure that they’re there; that they’re not warped or cracked; and that, if you plan to burn coal, the grate is the shaker type.

Click on picture below to enlarge

grates.jpg (130924 bytes)

 

Go to top of page

It is always best to have the right parts.

A warped, cracked, or missing grate and liner can be replaced. First contact the above company's and try to purchase the proper part.

If no grate can be found and all other options have been exhausted    then: take a piece of cardboard and cut it to fit loosely on the ledge where the grate normally sits. A machine shop can cut a piece of 1/2inch plate steel to match its dimensions. Then burn or drill holes, about the size of a quarter, every few inches on the side over the fire. This will make a durable, poker-type grate.

3. To replace a liner:

    1. A cast in place liner can be made by taking cardboard and forming a mold around the area that needs lining. Then use 3000 furnace cement to pour in mold area.
    2. Castable refractory cement can be purchased from Woodman Associates.

c. Cut a piece of cardboard to fit inside the firebox along the oven wall. A piece of plate steel can be patterned after this and, if necessary, (some stoves require that the liner be bolted into place, but mine sits loose) bolted with one bolt. A patch expands differently from the stove, and if more than one bolt is used, the stress could become so great that the cast iron could crack.

To burn wood on a coal grate: Place a heavy wire screen over the coal grate, or, for a more permanent conversion, have a wood grate made (as described above) to sit on top, or replace the coal grate. These measures are only necessary if the wood coals drop through the grate too easily, or the fire is hard to control.

4. Remove the remaining lids and check the firebox wall and top of the oven for cracks.

A firebox crack, either on the outside or oven side, deserves careful attention. If not severe, it can be filled with stove cement, then lined with a piece of sheet asbestos, and finally backed with steel plate. Again, use only one bolt to tighten it.

Sometimes the metal has been so badly burnt that it has deteriorated to the point of uselessness. If the stove looks suspicious and you cannot determine this yourself, have somebody who knows metal look over the stove before you buy it.

5. Open the oven door and check the walls and top for any cracks or rusted-out areas.

These can be welded or brazed, or covered with 1/8-inch plate steel, and tightened into place with as few bolts as possible.

6. Check all the seams of the stove to insure that they’re tight-fitting.

A gaping seam, besides being difficult to repair, indicates there is something wrong with the stove or that it has, sometime in the past, been heartlessly dropped or abused.

7. All the moving parts—doors, dampers, draft slides and levers—should be in place, closely fitting, and easily moved. Missing doors, especially flush-fitting ones, can sometimes be replaced with a door fashioned out of steel. Doors with rounded contours are more difficult to fit.

Household oil, penetrating oil, and kerosene will usually loosen stiff joints. Don't be in a hurry give the oil some time to work.

8. If the stove has a water reservoir, check the cast iron supporting it to make sure that it’s sound. Some of the stove companies didn't make vents for the steam to escape; instead the moisture collected on the inside of the reservoir cover, condensed, and rolled around the reservoir tank into the hot air chamber below. This water would combine with ashes, which had blown over from the firebox, to produce lye. After years of use, the lye could corrode the end of the stove. This must be repaired before the stove can be used.

Also check to see that the reservoir liner is there; a missing or damaged one can be replaced with a liner made of galvanized tin or copper.

 

9.   Check for rust damage. There likely will be some rust, but if it’s only on the surface, it’s harmless and easy to remove. Some stoves, however, were stored without first being cleaned of ashes, and the moisture accumulation and ashes will have eaten thin parts of the metal. So, if the inside of the stove looks like a lace curtain, forget it.

For heavily surface-rusted stoves, sandblasting is an effective and time-saving solution. Often, gravestone and monument makers provide this service.  A better method however, is to remove the rust by hand (with a wire brush attachment on a power drill) as it encourages a careful examination of the stove. Thin layers of rust are removed with steel wool.

    1. "Plating." Most stoves were plated with a very fine highly polished Nickel finish however, don’t first sandblast or grind the part. Simply take it as is, rust and all.

     

    (e-mail Antique Stoves)

    Painting

       1. A good stove paint is made by  the Forest Paint Co. It is called Stove Bright™ pH#503-342-1821

      2.  A stove paint and polish can be made

    by mixing powered graphite and linseed oil.  Mix into a paste then rub on with soft clothe.  Allow to dry overnight; then rub with a burlap bag or other hard clothe.

    Go to top of page

 

How to tell if the Stove has been worked on.

And Keep From Being Cheated

 

Go to top of page

Look for makeshift repairs. They will appear as gray or rough areas.       Furnace cement which has been used to fill in cracks or fill out missing pieces of metal will not take stove blacking the same as metal.

Go to top of page

 

Black Light testing

for repairs

Black light testing is a common practice used to authenticate antiques, to determine the extent of repairs.

For many beginning collectors, the science and techniques used in the black light testing method are a mystery?

 

Blacklight is used in evaluating antiques because the ultraviolet rays they produce react differently to different materials. Because of this interesting characteristic, things that are invisible to the naked eye become visible under the blacklight.

Before we go any further, a word of warning: Be sure that the blacklight you purchase is a longwave blacklight. Short-wave blacklight can damage your eyes and skin.

Now, onto the uses of blacklight in collecting antiques. Different chemical properties become apparent under a blacklight, modern paint will fluoresce under a black light, older paints will not, you can use this to determine whether a painted object is an antique or a newer reproduction as well as to determine whether a piece has been "touched up" and if so, how extensive was the repair.

The same technique can be used to detect repairs on antique porcelain as the old finish will not glow under a blacklight, and the newer material in the repair will.

Some antique glassware will glow under the blacklight as well; vaseline glass will glow because it contains uranium oxide.

Cast Iron: Most new paint on most new cast iron fluoresces; old paint on old cast iron rarely fluoresces. You can also detect newly painted repairs as well.

These recommendations for stove repairs may or may not be helpful for your particular problems; I have discovered that for every person versed in stove repairs, there is a somewhat different solution. But unless you’re an experienced welder or repair person, you would be smart to seek out someone who is. There are countless stories of jury-rigged repairs which led to fires far grander than what the firebox held. Anything which involves a fire inside your home requires utmost care.

These hints and idea's are for make do repairs.

It takes years of experience to restore stoves to museum quality.

 

Antique Stove Association

 

Go to top of page

Copyright Antique Stoves. All rights reserved.

07/26/14 06:29:09 PM

 

 

 

 

Accurate Information is a Commodity

Guessing the value of a stove over the phone is not accurate.

We don't do it! 

 We are not psychic.

*For information about your stove see Appraisals page.

 

 

For Questions:

Please Call

Monday - Friday 10 am to 4 pm est. 

(517) 767-3606

Antique Stoves, 410 Fleming Rd., Tekonsha, Michigan 49092

 

For The Old Appliance Club and GAS or ELECTRIC stove parts or information

 

(Please Note: The Old Appliance Club does not stock or sell any information on wood or coal stoves .)

 

 

  

Copyright 2000 Antique Stoves  All rights reserved.

07/26/14